CARS: The Dodge Sedan

33 trash talking grand daughter

When I had to get rid of my MG (as I thought) to move to San Francisco, my friends John and Georgie kindly sold me their black Dodge sedan for $50 (the amount they had been offered as trade-in for a new car).  This was not only the cheapest car I ever bought, but also the most economical, in that I never had any repairs or maintenance costs (other than adding a quart of oil every now and then) during the eight or so years that I owned it.

It was a stick shift, but had some kind of magical second gear so that, if you were stopped while going up a hill in San Francisco, you could easily let out the clutch in second and keep going uphill without having to shift (and thus risk stalling the engine and rolling backwards down the hill).  You could also go quite fast in second gear, so in that respect it was my first automatic shift car.

This doughty auto performed admirably well into my graduate school years at UC-Davis (near Sacramento), where I lived on a tree-lined road that also served as an off-ramp for the freeway.  The house had previously been rented to my pal Michael Burns, and he convinced the owner, Mr. Callori, that I was a responsible adult.  Mr. Callori soon learned that I was not, but he was infinitely patient.  For example, I rarely mowed the lawn, which could (and did) grow several inches high—much higher, if you counted the weeds—but Mr. Callori put up with this eye-sore behavior even though I lived next door to his immaculate house and yard.  Fronting the property alongside the road was a space to park cars, then a row of huge shade trees, and between them and the lawn, a hedge of tall shrubs about 6 or 7 feet tall (since I never trimmed them).

One day, as I was driving home and pulled in to park under the trees, the brakes failed and the car passed between two trees and crashed through the hedge.  Luckily, the tall grass of the unmown lawn slowed the car, which came to rest about a foot away from the house.  A few beers induced some husky friends to help me push the car back through the hedge, and the Dodge was soon replaced by a VW square-back sedan.  Even so, the Dodge rested contentedly under the trees for several months.

As it happened, each day when I walked to school I passed a small mom-and-pop market a few hundred feet to the south of my yard.  One day, on the way home, I stopped in to buy some beer.  The pop of the ownership said to me, “Hey, what are you going to do with that Dodge?”

“I hadn’t thought about it,” I said truthfully, although my father would have approved of this as a bargaining gambit.

“Well,” he said, “what would you take for it?”

“Two six-packs,” I said.  “Talls.”  This added consideration was a bargaining ploy that my Dad may or may not have approved of, since beer was involved.  In any case, the deal was closed.

Later that day, more beer and a new shift of husky friends helped me push the car down to the grocery-owner’s yard, which was next to the market.  It was a pleasant little house with a white picket fence running around the neatly mown lawn in the front yard.   Between the fence and the roadway, there was room for cars to park under tall shade trees, and that’s where we left the Dodge. Under those trees, the grocery owner started working to repair the brakes, which took him several days.

As it happened, I was walking home from school one afternoon just as he finished the job.  He gave me a friendly wave as he got in the car to give it a whirl.  He backed the car into the street, but the car didn’t stop, and he desperately made a high-speed U-turn, going backwards straight through his white picket fence.  I tried really hard not to laugh, but was deeply struck by the symmetry of our experiences.  He only swore a little bit, and then vowed to finish the job.  He and I pushed the car back under the trees, where it remained for a week or more as he toiled away on it.

Eventually, as I was walking home late one afternoon, I saw that the car was gone, so I went into the grocery store to see what was up.

“Where’s the car?” I said.

“Well, uh….I sold it,” he said.

“So you got the brakes working,” I said.

“Well, uh, yeah.  They worked.”

“How many times did you test them?” I asked.

“Well, uh … I only tried them once and then this guy came and bought it.”

“Ah,” I said.

“Actually,” he said, “I feel kind of bad about it.”

“Why?” I asked.

“The guy lives in Nevada.”

A deep silence pervaded the grocery store as we both somberly envisioned this guy driving the car home over the Donner Pass of the High Sierra.  For the next several days, I scoured the Chronicle and the Bee for news of a motorist in a black 1955 Dodge sedan plunging to his death on the sharp downgrade to Reno.  I bet the grocery-store guy did, too.  Such an article never appeared, but I took little or no solace in this.  An article may have appeared in the Reno newspaper.

 

I thoroughly enjoyed the beer.  Best car deal I ever made.

CARS: American Ingenuity and the Pickup

marlis holding savannah on deck

 

Around 1970, I bought a 1959 pickup truck.  A Chevy, I think, but possibly a Ford.  I know it was light green.

I eventually took this vehicle to Wichita in late 1972, where every winter it would fishtail a few times on icy streets.  Usually a curb would stop the spin.

One summer night, for some reason, I mindlessly locked it up when it was parked on the street.  Naturally, somebody broke the right-side window in order to steal, um, nothing, of course.  Or maybe a fledgling thief broke in just for the practice.  In any case, even after I had a new window put in, the vehicle still wasn’t exactly cherry.

In fact, this truck became increasingly run down, and at one point the windshield wipers stopped functioning correctly.  That is, they would have enough poop to sweep up to the left, but not enough to go back down to the right.   I didn’t learn this in high school shop, but I tied a heavy cord to the right-side wiper arm and ran the cord through the right wing-window into the cab of truck, with enough cord in the interior to reach over to the driver.  Thus, when it rained, I could turn on the wipers, and when they got stuck (i.e., every time they went up to the left), I could tug on the cord so that they would return to their “down” position.

Eventually, I improved on this design when I found that, if I shut the right wing-window on the cord with just the right amount of tension, the cord would work like a bungee, and the wipers would return to their “down” position with virtually no effort by me.

One day, however, after I had parked the car to the side of the driveway of the house I was renting, I found when I returned to it that it wouldn’t start.  As it happened—wait a minute, the wife insists on hijacking this narrative.

Both my fathers were race car drivers, so I grew up watching and listening to super mechanics who knew how to make ordinary cars into faster cars, winning cars, treasured and legendary cars.  (My first car was a ’55 Chevy that could do 105 in a quarter.)

Sometime in the late 70s, when my first father was visiting, I asked him to take a look at the Ford truck that my professor-boyfriend had left parked beside his house’s driveway because, he said, it wouldn’t start and he didn’t know what was wrong.   Professor Broadhead happened to be out of town that weekend, so this was to be a surprise for him.  (Yes, I got all As; now please try to focus on the story.)  Dad agreed to take a look.

It was an old, faded green truck, tired and scruffy—all  the more so as I now viewed it through my father’s eyes, who at that time had a pristine red Dino Ferrari tucked into his garage back in Bellevue, Washington.

The first task, of course, was to raise the hood and check for possible problems.  The old engines were slight compared to the tightly-packed conglomerations of metal you find under hoods today.  Back then, you could sit on a fender with your feet propped inside to work on one.

As we peered into the engine compartment, Dad gave me a WTF look but said only, “The battery.”   I looked.  It had tumbled from its rusty perch and collapsed onto a hose beneath it, where it dangled by a single cable.

Dad used his handkerchief to lift the battery back onto its little platform and reattach the other cable while I went into the house to look for something to secure it with.

All I could find was a pack of multi-colored pipe cleaners, so I twisted them together and strapped the battery back in place while Dad worked on straightening out the hose.

We discussed trying to start the car, but in the end it seemed best to leave well enough alone. 

Sidebar:  Later, that vehicle was to become known as “the truck I gave up for the woman I love” when he sold it to buy a station wagon that would hold a new wife and three tall step-children.  That car is a whole other story.

                                                               Marlis Manley Broadhead

Remember, she has an MFA in fiction.

However you tell it, this incident apparently gave Frank Manley no very positive opinion of my mechanical skills or general mental capabilities.  I’m not sure about Marlis.  But her pipe-cleaner remedy proved to be equally as effective as my windshield wiper cord, proving that women can be just as good with mechanical objects as men.

CARS: Sand and the Pickup Truck

pickup.jpg

 

I didn’t know that, if you buy a pickup truck, your weekends and several midweek days end up helping friends tote things around—big, heavy things like household appliances and pianos.  Okay, some Wichita friends used my pickup to move a piano for me when I was out of town.  But the point is still valid.

One day, my Wichita State colleague and good friend Jim Berlin told me that he wanted to make a sandbox in his back yard for his two boys, using a huge old airplane tire as a frame.  Jim asked if we could take my truck and go get some sand to fill up the tire.  “Sure,” I said.

I drove my half-ton pick-up to the sand place, kind of half-remembering that, the week before, a mechanic had told me that the pickup’s dicey clutch might last several more months, but that I should be careful with it.  So I carefully inched the truck into the tunnel under the three-story structure that held the gigantic chute that dispensed the sand.  The operator yelled “How much?” and Jim leaned out the right-side window and said “Let’s try a ton.”  With an electrifying rushing sound and then a deafening BLAM, the sand smashed into the bed of the pickup, which creaked and settled uneasily under the load.  “How‘s that?” asked the operator, and Jim, who was nothing if not expansive and good-hearted, said enthusiastically, “Let’s try another ton.”  Whoosh BLAM.  As I pulled slowly, ever so slowly out from under the sand chute, I could pretty much spin the steering wheel without altering the direction of the pickup, whose front wheels seemed only occasionally to drop down and touch the earth.

After a long, slow, agonizing trip, we got to Jim’s backyard and filled up the old airplane tire.  This used up at most a tenth of the sand in the truck bed.  So we started calling every young couple we knew, asking them if they wanted to build a sandbox for their kids.  Really, actually insisting that they build a sandbox for their kids.  We spent the rest of the day driving around Wichita and shoveling out sand, but at the end of the day, I still had about a ton of the stuff in the back of my truck.

Not surprisingly, I guess, this didn’t really trouble me all that much.  The sand stayed there for well over a year, providing very good traction in winter.  No more fishtails for me, no sir.

One afternoon, while engaged in a philosophical discussion in Kirby’s bar across the street from Wichita State, I asked Jim Kirby, “Hey, why do they call my truck a half-ton?”  As an experienced bartender, Kirby had only a trace of a smile on his face.  “Well,” he explained at last, “that means it’s able to carry a half-ton load.”  Ah.

As usual, this opinion prompted a lively discussion among that afternoon’s bar patrons, who varied greatly in cultural and educational backgrounds, to say nothing of sobriety.  Since the tavern’s denizens were notoriously given to making wagers (wagers, not wages), Kirby spoke for all in saying “Glenn, you’re never going to get rid of that sand.”

This stung a bit, and I replied, “Jim, I’ll bet you a beer that I’m going to sell it to the next guy who walks in the door.”  There was a general clamor as multiple side-bets were negotiated, and then everyone turned to stare expectantly at the door.

Pretty soon, actually, a guy walked in who had never been in the bar before.  He hadn’t taken more than two or three steps when I said “How would you like to buy a ton of sand for $10.”  He said, “That’s incredible.  I just started putting in a patio.  I’d love to have some sand.”  So we delivered it right then.  When I got back to the bar an hour or so later, it was if I had just inherited the Coors brewery.  Complete amazement, hearty if bewildered congratulations, and of course one free beer.

Later, I drove this truck to the east coast when I got a job at Hampden-Sydney College, located about ten miles from Farmville in south-central Virginia.  Unfortunately, by then the pickup also had starter problems, so as I traveled east I could only stay at motels located on a hill, in order to be able coast down and get the engine going in the morning.  When I got to Farmville, I didn’t stop and park, but immediately drove around town until I found a garage.  I pulled in and explained to the owner/mechanic about the truck not starting.  He said he wouldn’t be able to get to it for a week.  I told him that I had just gotten into town for a job at Hampden-Sydney College (several miles from Farmville), and that I needed the truck to get to work.

This gray-haired mechanic, clad in oil-stained bib overalls, and with his greasy hands on his hips, looked at me with steely eyes.  I immediately remembered the advice of my friend Georgie Cooper, born and raised in the Mississippi Delta, who told me just before I left for Virginia, “Ga-lenn-uh, if some old redneck tells you to ‘mind yer own bidness,’ you mind it!”

“You’re a teacher at Hampden-Sydney College?” he eventually asked in his Virginia drawl.

“Yes,” I said, “Just starting this semester.  I haven’t even found a place to stay yet.”

“What do you teach?”

“English.”

“Oh, Jesus,” he said.

“Is there something wrong?” I asked, a bit defensive, but trying to mind my own bidness.

“Oh, it’s not that,” he sighed.  “My son just got a masters degree in English.”

There was a significant pause.

“Look,” he said finally, “I know you don’t have any money.  I’ll tell you what—I’ll work on it this afternoon, and I’ll only charge you for parts.”

 

I always knew I had picked the right major.

CARS: The Pink Station Wagon

all the kids.jpg

When I returned from Virginia to Wichita in 1981, it was merely a brief stopping point on my way to a new tenure-track job at Iowa State University, and I should probably note also that this pitstop provided an occasion for me to marry Marlis.  Since she (now we) had three tall children who hadn’t yet topped out, growth-wise, we needed a new car—preferably a station wagon.  To get one, Marlis enlisted the aid of her “second father,” Frank Lies.

As a former national champion race-car driver (of super-modifieds, which at that time looked like slightly smaller versions of a 1950s Indy 500 racer), as a successful Wichita businessman, and as a very gregarious guy, Frank knew lots and lots of people, including somebody who had a fenced-in lot full of old cars for sale.  Repos?  Possibly, and one of these cars was a station wagon.  Frank thought it was a good deal, so we went to look it over with him.

It was a big old boxy, decades-old gas-guzzler.  Another Dodge?  A Chrysler?  Something like that.  Huge.  When we first saw it, Marlis and I may have gasped, or in my case may have half-whispered a very impolite but heartfelt phrase.  For the car that Frank had described as gray turned out to be pink—not actually a super-bright Mary Kay shocking pink, but a sedate grandma’s-going-to-church-this-Sunday-and-she-needs-a-car-that-will-match-her-pastel-hat pink.  Marlis said softly, “Did I tell you that Dad is color-blind?”  As middle daughter Nancy said frequently in those days, no duh.

Unfortunately, the car was very, very cheap, and so was I, so we had to buy it.  It had lots of leg room for the lengthening kids, who would need to be able to stretch out whenever we drove down to Wichita from Ames, which turned out to be once or twice a week.  Okay, I exaggerate slightly.

When we drove the car over to Frank’s after picking it up, he motioned to me for the keys and said “Let’s go for a drive.”  At that time, Frank lived on the very edge of east Wichita, so we were quickly on a rural gravel road, at which time Frank said “Let’s blow out some carbon,” and put the pedal to the metal as I suppose he must have done hundreds of times on quarter-mile dirt tracks in his long, successful racing career.  [Frankie Lies.  Yeah, that guy.]

A huge black cloud immediately billowed up behind the car.  “That carbon can really build up in these older cars,” Frank said, perhaps as a philosophical musing, or more likely as a terse explanation for non-racing simpleton college professors.  By that time, I could see out the corner of my eye that we were going somewhere between 90 and 100 miles an hour on this crappy gravel road, and I think that’s when my panicky right hand formed a lasting impression in the right-side door panel where it meets the window.  In later years, I would occasionally wake up screaming in the middle of the night, but I can truthfully say that we never, ever, ever had a problem with carbon build-up.

Driving a big old boxy, decades-old, pink gas-guzzler station wagon around any town does not earn you many bachelor-of-the-year awards, so I definitely knew I was married.

When we got to Ames, we found that there was still a functioning Welcome Wagon in that sleepy college town.  Among the goodies in the Welcome Wagon Gift Basket was a certificate for a free haircut.  Marlis thought that it would be good for me to get a trim before showing up for my first day of work at Iowa State, so I drove the pink beast into downtown Ames and parked in front of the free haircut venue, which turned out to be a beauty salon called Madge’s of San Francisco.  I kept telling myself, “You’re a 38-year-old married man on a strict budget.  You can do this!” So I got out of Pinky and casually strolled into Madge’s of San Francisco, free-haircut certificate in hand.

I may have felt more compromised in my lifetime, but I couldn’t tell you when.

The pink beast rendered useful service for a couple of more years, but eventually was replaced as the family car by a new minivan.  Even so, we got yet more mileage out of it because the eldest, Linda, drove it to high school throughout her senior year.  Or perhaps I should say “drove it near her high school.”  Many, many years later, Linda remarked with something approaching sarcasm that she was so embarrassed by the car, she would park it a couple of blocks from the school and walk the rest of the way.

I’ve never fully understood her fussiness.  I mean, geez, the wipers worked fine.

I’ve certainly had a few more cars since Pinky, but they were just cars.  No drama, no fun, simply transportation.

WEDDINGS: Mary and Joe

gracie wedding with mary and joe

 

The union of Mary and Joe took place in a simple churchyard atop a hill overlooking the town of Mendocino and the rocky Pacific shore beyond it.

How can one explain Mendocino?  About a four-hour drive north of San Francisco, right on the coast among scattered redwood groves, it is a lingering slice of the Age of Aquarius, but with a much better view of the ocean.  Some residents (in earlier days) were salmon fishermen, loggers, and lumber-mill workers (mainly in nearby Fort Bragg), while the people I knew tended to pursue two or three humble part-time vocations in order to support their love of natural foods, fusion cuisine, earth-toned clothing, very, very liberal politics, Birkenstocks, and the lively arts.  It was a great place to live.

Of course, there was the time warp.  While living there in the late 1990s, Marlis and I were once invited to a costume party by a fellow faculty member at the College of the Redwoods, and I decided to go as a 1960s Berkeley hippie with black turtleneck sweater and love beads.  On the way to the bash, we stopped so I could run into a market and buy some wine.  Once inside, I realized that I looked just like everybody else in the store.

So Mary and Joe’s outdoor Mendocino wedding ceremony was held in a churchyard meadow on a gently sloping hill.  Since Mary was Catholic and Joe was Jewish, the ceremony was led by an ecumenical committee of what I felt to be alternative-lifestyle religious officers, including a rabbi (possibly), a priest (possibly), and some kind of feminist spokesperson.  As I recall, two of them were women.  You figure it out.

Quite possibly I’m making all of that up, but no matter how snotty I may sound, I’m trying to be objective.  Given my unease anywhere near a church, it wasn’t easy to focus at the time.  Anyway, Mary and Joe were warm, genuine, deeply nice people (and still are), and everything seemed plausible, unpretentious, perfect.

Down toward the lower end of the sloping churchyard was a canopy that might give shade in the unlikely event of an unfoggy day, though its main purpose seemed to be to delimit the immediate area where the bride and groom and the cheerful union trio were to do their thing.  The rest of us stood up the hill, just a bit away from the happy couple.

As the ceremony was about to begin, a gentle rain began, which then quickly increased to a downpour, and we were all invited to come down the hill and crowd close together under the canopy.  We did so, nudging shoulder to shoulder, and the ceremony began.

After some sincere introductory remarks, one of the officiators said, “Mary and Joe believe that a marriage is not just a union of two people, but also involves all the friends and family who are an important part of their lives.  So they join in asking all of you to participate in celebrating this union.  Please recite after me.”

Some people—okay, the person “me”—might have thought, “Hey, this is a bit much.”  But then, it was Mary and Joe—Mary and Joe!—and it seemed right.  So something like the following dialogue ensued, with the officiator enunciating clearly and strongly, and the crowd murmuring gamely.

OFFICIATOR:  Joe and Mary, we all know that marriage involves the support of friends and family.

CROWD:  Joe and Mary, we all know that marriage involves the support of friends and family.

OFFICIATOR:  We promise to support your union as the days and years go by.

CROWD:  We promise to support your union as the days and years go by.

OFFICIATOR: In good times and bad, we will stand by you.

CROWD: In good times and bad, we will stand by you.

OFFICIATOR:  You are part of us, and we are part of you.

CROWD:  You are part of us, and we are part of you.

OFFICIATOR:  Well, I see the rain has let up.

CROWD: Well, I see the rain has let up.

OFFICIATOR:  No, I mean. . . .I see the rain has let up.

CROWD:  Ah.

One of the great moments in history, and I was there.  So very, very grateful.

WEDDINGS: Larry and Geraldine

mom and dad wedding

My college friend Larry and another friend’s sister, Geraldine, got married in a hippyish-era ceremony in a flower-bedecked backyard in southern California.  I remember him as wearing cowboy boots, jeans, a long-sleeved white shirt with subtle pin-stripes, a light-brown corduroy vest, a paisley string tie, and a blonde Fu Manchu beard.  That description may not be factual, but I believe it is faithful to the time and place.

Beautiful young Geraldine wore an exquisitely simple, vaguely old-timey dress.  And, yes, she wore a flower in her hair.  Simply gorgeous.

Just before the ceremony was to begin, as we stood behind the crowd, Larry confided to me in a low voice, “Wait until you hear the music I recorded for the ceremony.  It’s Dylan.”

I thought it was odd that he would mention this to me at that point, but on the other hand we shared a deep interest in music.  He had shown me how to play guitar, and had also taught me a lot of old-time country songs by the likes of Jimmie Rodgers, Bill Monroe, and Reno and Smiley.  For several years, we played and sang together a lot—in living rooms, of course.

Anyway, after Larry and Gerry had completed their home-made vows and were walking back through the seated audience, a recording of Larry singing began to play from a boom box:  “New Morning.”  Very upbeat, very joyful.

A bit later, after the reception party had had a chance to settle into a groove, Larry came up to me, smiling, and said, “What did you think of the music?”

“I’m a bit disappointed,” I said.  “I thought it might be ‘Lay, Lady, Lay’.”

He laughed as if I’d made a joke.

WEDDINGS: Marlis and Glenn

marlis and glenn smaller

 

The wedding of Marlis and Glenn was relatively low-key, perhaps in keeping with the conventions of second marriages.  Some second marriages.  One afternoon, we loaded the kids into the pink station wagon and drove over to the house of one of Marlis’s WSU friends, whose husband was a judge.  As we drove down a street of suburban Wichita houses, Marlis said “It’s one of these, I think.”

“Which one?” you might ask.  I know I did.

“I’m not sure,” she said.  “Maybe you could just knock on a few doors and ask?”

Premonitions, premonitions.

At this point, the three kids noticed that they were a block or so away from a friend’s house, and wanted to know if they could go visit.  Right then.

“Not now,” said their mother.  “Glenn and I are getting married right now.”

I thought they already knew, since they seemed to be neatly dressed for it, but maybe not.

Somehow we found the judge’s house, went in, and began a wedding ceremony that had been promised to be the equivalent of a brief courthouse civil proceeding.

Since Marlis had not long before been hospitalized in traction for her back, the first significant pause came when the judge asked for a promise of lifelong fidelity “in sickness and in health.”  She peered at me out the corners of her eyes, looking for a response, but by the time I realized what he had said, the moment had passed.

A more resounding silence came when the judge asked me for a ring to give Marlis.

“Ring?”

“Here,” said Marlis, eventually–producing her mother’s wedding ring. . .with perhaps a hint of another sideward look as her own premonitions arrived on the scene.

Yeah, definitely a sideward look.

Just when things seemed to be over and settled–and completely out of keeping with the agreed-upon Wedding Ceremony Check-List–the judge announced his wish to read aloud a relevant philosophical musing from a source purported to be Native American.  So he did, and at some length.  Really quite a bit of length.  Something about nature, ownership, sharing, earth, oneness, the stars in the sky, the prairie, treading softly in one’s moccasins, clean air, responsible stewardship of the land, letting what you love go free, the Great Spirit, whatever.  You could look it up.

The moment that most lingers in one’s memory, however, came afterwards, as the judge escorted us all outside to his driveway.

“Wait a minute, ya gotta see this” he said, opening the garage door so that we could view—and hear, and appreciate—his new riding lawnmower.

 

Sickness and health.  Great Spirit.  John Deere.  Your full-service wedding in Kansas.

WEDDINGS: Billy and Debbie

linda and nancy 600

 

Back in the 70s, Billy and Debbie were two of the younger denizens of Kirby’s Beer Store, a tavern located just across the street from the Wichita State University campus.

Kirby’s was a decidedly grungy bar, and kind of scary at night, but in the afternoons it was populated mainly by WSU students (especially petroleum geologists) and a few bottom-feeding professors from various disciplines (I represented English), along with a large contingent of non-academic patrons running the gamut from interesting through amusing to deeply disturbing.

Billy belonged to Mensa, but even so asked Jim the bar owner, another student, plus three faculty patrons (including me) to appear as groomsmen at his wedding, which transpired at the biggest Catholic church in southeastern Wichita.

In true 70s fashion, for lack of a better word, we groomsmen were elegantly costumed in cream-colored tuxedos with brown piping along the lapels and pockets, and with shirts accented by ruffles at the cuffs and chest.  More or less the Pips, except Gladys couldn’t make the gig.

The huge reception—featuring a polka band brought in from Nebraska—was held way across town in southwestern Wichita, the cowboy-tough part of the city which at the time was more rural than suburban.  To get there, I rode over with Jim in his faded-blue, 40s-era Ford pickup.

Jim had earlier delivered several kegs of beer to the hall where the reception was to be held.  But now, immediately after the wedding ceremony, as we drove along ancient Highway 50 to the reception across town, he suddenly wondered whether Billy had ordered enough ice to keep the beer cold.

Concerned, he pulled into an isolated, ancient filling station that might well have serviced the 1919 cross-country convoy led by young Lt. Col. Dwight D. Eisenhower.  Off to one side, we could see the station had a separate cold-facility on which, sometime in the very distant past, someone had stenciled the word ICE.  Along the front of the main building, some old-timers in overalls and cowboy hats sat sunning themselves, tilted back on wooden chairs.  There we pulled up near the old-style pumps.

Kirby jumped out, saying “Let’s go see about some ice,” and then remembered that there was no interior handle for the right-side door of the pickup, and also that the right-side window was broken and couldn’t be rolled down.  The door could be opened only from the outside.

So as I waited patiently, Kirby did a half-circle around the pickup, grasped the outside handle, and opened the door for me.  Still dressed in my cream-colored tux with brown piping and ruffled shirt, I stepped demurely onto the cracked concrete.  Kirby, ever the gentleman, closed the door after me.

“Thanks,” I said, almost audibly, and probably taking too much time to observe the eyebrows of the crusty gents arrayed along the station front.

“Got any ice?” Kirby asked a guy who was in what might have been a uniform.

It turned out that this guy was the station owner, and he gave a quick backward head jerk over his right shoulder.

“Yep.  Back there,” he said, turning, and adding pointedly, “You’ll have to haul it yourself.”

Once in the cold room, the owner literally kicked several huge blocks of ice toward us.  We silently loaded them into the back of the truck.  When we were done, Kirby took out his wallet and paid.

Slowing double-counting the bills, and speaking loudly enough to be heard by the old farts in the row of chairs, the station owner slyly drawled, “You boys havin’ a party?”

A brief silence, then–

“Just a few guys over for poker,” I said.

BARS: Gosh’s in Stevens Point

g and kevin

Sometime in the 1980s, while we were living in Ames, Iowa, the kids gave me a book for my birthday, though I believe Marlis likely played some part in the selection.  I don’t remember the title, but it was about the 100 best bars in America, two for each state.

From that author’s perspective, a good bar—a bar bar, as he termed it—would be a window-less structure made of concrete blocks, with one thick, padded red door for entering (or possibly leaving).  In the deep murk of the interior, there could be no ferns, no pinball machines, nothing except possibly a fuzzy black-and-white TV.   Basically, it should be a machine for drunks, at least one of whom should be a master at “holding forth”—i.e., delivering long,  rhetorically florid commentaries on matters of little interest to any adult with a brain and at least a minimal experience of life outside of a barroom.

I had been in seven of them.

In my time, I’ve enjoyed quite a few others, too.  Here’s one.

 

GOSH’S IN STEVENS POINT, WISCONSIN

Back in 1972, I visited my friends Neal and Abigail in Stevens Point, WI, for a week or so in late December—the season of the year when the radio would daily announce the amount of time it would take for human flesh to freeze.  In this daunting milieu, I took to spending late afternoons at a bar on the town square called Gosh’s.

Fronting this town square in Stevens Point were at least 10 or possibly 15 bars, lounges, and liquor-enabled restaurants.  Of these, Gosh’s was a classic neighborhood bar.  As you entered, a long wooden counter and back-bar extended more than halfway down the left side of the room, always tended by a gent who looked to be in his 60s.  Only guys sat or stood at the bar.

On the right side of the room were 10 or 15 tables where husband/wife pairs and the occasional female group of friends or relatives sat.  At the back of the room was a pool table surrounded by a ring of small tables and chairs, all set far enough away that you could actually play pool.  A very decent set-up.

At that time, as my friends had warned me, there was a strong town-and-gown antipathy in Stevens Point, whose economy depended almost entirely on the Lullaby Furniture Company.  So my bearded presence at the bar was aggressively ignored as I sipped my bourbon on the rocks.  However, the place had an ancient jukebox stocked with about 8 million really good polkas and schottisches, which naturally drew my musical and ethnomusicological interest, and I played a bunch of the 45 rpm records each day that I went there—which was basically every day for a week or more.

After several visits, I decided I wanted to play some pool, so I walked to the back of the room and put a quarter down on the pool table’s edge to reserve a place. When my turn came, I inexplicably shot better than I ever had in my life (or ever would again, except maybe for one time in another bar), and as I neared victory I started taking a lot of verbal abuse from the very large mid-20s Polish guy whom I was, against all odds, beating.

The guy was getting pretty hot, I felt, making slurred comments and then glaring at me, and he seemed to have the enthusiastic support of several friends.  After a while, however, an older guy walked back from the front of the bar, drew my opponent’s attention with a beckoning finger, waited for the guy to bend his head down to hear him, and said quietly but firmly, “Old Mr. Gosh says to lay off the kapusti.”

The guy immediately backed away from me, but wasn’t happy about it, and stood there muttering. To try to clear the air, I said “Hey, let me buy you a drink.” He deliberated and then said okay if I’d have one with him.  I shouted to the bartender, “Two of whatever he’s having.”

This turned out to be peppermint schnapps.  Yes, “This turned out to be peppermint schnapps.”  There should be room in that sentence somewhere for the F word, at least twice.  Somehow, I managed to chug down the shot like a man, quickly chasing it with a small glass of Point Special beer. After a few more one-ounce slugs of this vile swill (with chasers) and several increasingly hilarious games of pool, which I was careful to lose (by playing at my normal skill level), I paid off my debts, thanked everyone for the games, and then went back to the bar and stood in an open space next to the guy who’d calmed down my opponent.

After a respectful silence, I asked him, “Which person is Old Mr. Gosh?”

“He was here a while, but he left.  That’s his son behind the bar,” he said.

“Ah,” I said, and stood quietly for quite a while, trying not to seem inquisitive.

“What,” I asked him at last, “does kapusti mean?”

He thought a few moments, and then said “Cabbage-head.”

I nodded.

After a few minutes more, I turned to him again and said, more as a statement than a question, “It doesn’t only mean ‘cabbage-head,’ does it.'”

He looked at me for a moment, and finally said “No.”

I took a rest from Gosh’s on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, but dropped in the day after, found a stool at the long bar, and ordered peppermint schnapps with a Point Special chaser.

The waitress looked at me and said, “Oh, there you are.”  She walked down to a small table-top Christmas tree at the end of the bar, picked up a tiny wrapped present, and brought it back to me.

“From Old Mr. Gosh,” she said.  “He says thanks for the polkas.”

So kapusti is good with me.

*     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *

 

AFTERWORD:  No, I don’t remember what the gift was.  Probably a key holder, or maybe a church key with “Gosh’s” stamped on it.  I’d like to think it was a tiny bottle of peppermint schnapps.

BARS: Jack’s Nest and the Four-County Fair

Jack’s Nest was a roadhouse a few miles outside of Farmville, Virginia, which I frequented while teaching composition at Hampden Sydney College.  During one month, the bar buzzed with anticipation about the up-coming Four County Fair, which I was told was a big deal, and I should be sure to go.  Especially, I was told with smiles and knowing nods, I should check out “the hoochie-coochie girls.”

How quaint, I thought.  These simple yet somehow engaging yokels.

Naturally, I did in fact go to the Four County Fair, taking along a cheap camera which I hung on a cord around my neck, so I could send photos to my stylish friends in the world’s most elegant cosmopolitan urban centers.  For example, Wichita, Kansas.

Once at the fairgrounds, I meandered casually among the various amusements—mainly ring-toss and coin-throw games that you might find at the average PTA fund-raiser.  I took lots of pictures of these manifestations of rustic southern pop culture, and especially of the primitive, primary-colors artwork festooning the premises.

Eventually I worked my way to the back end of the fairgrounds, where I found a big tent with a banner announcing “Hoochie-Coochie Girls.”  I had thought that the gang at Jack’s Nest had been kidding me, but there it was.  So I paid and went in, much as an anthropologist might decide to dwell among a newly discovered Amazonian tribe in order to document its primitive ways.

Inside, a very large group of men, many in bib overalls, were standing in front of the stage.  Before long, recorded music started up, and four or five women climbed onstage and began to gyrate to the music in unexpected yet complicated and interesting ways.  Pretty soon, they were doing so nude.

Not burlesque house “nude.”  Not Sally Rand Fan Dance with pasties and g-string and artful feathers nude. Nude nude.  Right then and there, a couple of miles outside of Farmville, Virginia, in 1980—years before coeds going wild at wet T-shirt contests on DVDs, before show-us-your-tits-for-a-string-of-beads, before instant porn on your iPhone, before teenagers parading around malls in thongs—young women were totally naked and gyrating in explicit representations of sexual congress at the Four County Fair.  It was like going to a movie house to see “Meet Me in St. Louis” and they show “Debby Does Dallas.”

Eventually, some of the dancers invited physical participation by a couple of members of the audience.  I choose my words carefully.

At the end of the show, I think it accurate to say “dazed and confused,” I left the hoochie-coochie tent—and within four steps found myself face to face with three of my Hampden-Sydney College students.  Heads nodding, we said hello as we passed one another.

The next morning, when I walked into my 8:00 o’clock class, I was stunned to encounter a roomful of fully awake and widely grinning late-adolescent schoolboys.  Soon, one of them broke the silence by politely asking, “Get any good pictures, Doctor Broadhead?”

*     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *

Another of the barmaids at Jack’s Nest was a chatty young woman in her mid-to-late 20s. In contrast with Pernell’s sister-in-law, she was very, very white—freckled, but very pale.   I believe the word “blowsy” was coined on her behalf.  I guess I probably mean “blouse-y,” in the sense of zaftig.

In any case, she was very pleasant, and she and her boyfriend once had me to an early dinner and cards at his dairy farm so I could see how such an operation worked in south-central Virginia.  I think that guy was so strong that he didn’t need gates in his fences.  To get a cow into another pasture, he’d just pick her up and toss her.  Nice folks.

Back at the Nest one afternoon, as I started to leave while she was tending bar, I said with what I thought was a comical melodramatic sigh, “Well, I guess I’ll go try to pull together the tattered shreds of my life.”

 

“Oh,” she said without a trace of guile, “Doin’ your laundry?”